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+Are tree and landscaping estimates free?
  • Yes estimates are free.
  • Risk assessments however are not.
+How much does tree work cost?
  • Generally tree work cost at least $200 to $300 dollars, to cut down limbs or a small tree.
  • Depending on the size of the tree it may cost as much as $2000-$3000 dollars, depending on if we need to use a crane, or the tree is in the backyard; depending on if we can get equipment to it, or if the tree is dead and may be hazardous.
+Do you have to pay sales tax on tree work, Mulch and Firewood?
  • Yes, you do have to pay sales tax.
  • Ohio Department of Taxation
  • Landscaping, Lawn Care Services, and Snow Removal - January, 2004 – Revised This release deals with the application of Ohio sales and use tax to landscaping, lawn care, and snow removal services. It revises and replaces the revised release issued in January 2003 so as to incorporate changes made to the law relating to snow removal in Am. Sub. H.B. 95 (effective 7/1/2003). R.C. 5739.01 (B)(3)(g) includes landscaping and lawn care service in the definition of "sale" or "selling," which makes the provision of these services subject to the Ohio sales and use tax.
  • R.C. 5739.01 (B)(5) states that "the provision of landscaping and lawn care service and the transfer of property as part of that service is never a construction contract."
  • R.C. 5739.01 (DD) defines "landscaping and lawn care service" as: ". . . the services of planting, seeding, sodding, removing, cutting, trimming, pruning, mulching, aerating, applying chemicals, watering, fertilizing and providing similar services to establish, promote, or control the growth of trees, shrubs, flowers, grass, ground cover, and other flora, or otherwise maintaining a lawn or landscape grown or maintained by the owner for ornamentation or other nonagricultural purpose."
+Can the "Cheaper Company" be the better option?
  • No, they typically leave the firewood, and don’t chip up the brush.
  • If a mistake is made they disappear, try to get half the money down and then don’t finish the work.
  • You want to use a reputable company.
  • Do your research of the company.
  • Is that company insured?
  • Do they have a landline, or website?
+How long does a tree job take?
  • Most tree work can be done in about a day.
  • Only if the job is for a large company or commercial job, the work may take longer than a day.
+When is the best time to do tree work?
  • Removals of trees, any time the ground is dry. Late spring through summer, even into mid-Fall.
  • We recommend for pruning etc., late fall into winter.
  • Tree work can basically be done 12 months out of the year. We have all the proper equipment such as a crane, bucket truck and we like to use plywood under heavy equipment during the months where the ground may be slightly wet, to protect your yard.
+Is someone soliciting you?
Most people may just be in the area looking for work and use this as a way to get work that may be risky to a homeowner. They don’t have insurance and proper equipment - we do.
+What types of payment do you accept?
  • We take Visa, Mastercard, and personal checks.
  • You can make a payment over the phone at (513)738-9913
  • Our address is:
    2076 Venice Blvd
    Farifield, Ohio 45014
    Our hours of business are 8:00am-5:00pm Mon-Fri.

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Removing Stumps

+What does it normally cost to grind a stump?
Stump grinding generally cost at least $125- $300 dollars, this does not include surface roots.
+When grinding a stump, how close can you get to concrete, fence or obstacle?
Typically 4-6 inches
+Can I plant a tree in the same spot where a tree stump was removed?
  • You can, however we do not recommend it.
  • It can be done, we call it “Prep to plant” after grinding the stump we apply lime, allow it to heal and the lime is used to break down the roots, bringing down the acidic level allowing the roots time to heal.

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Tree Planting

+Why should I keep planting trees?
A tree is worth $193,250 dollars according to Professor T.M. Das of the University of Calcutta. A tree living for 50 years will generate $31,250 worth of oxygen, provide $62,000 worth of air pollution control, control soil erosion and increase soil fertility to the tune of $31,250, recycle $37,500 worth of water and provide a home for animals worth $31,250. This figure does not include the value of fruits, lumber or beauty derived from trees. Just another sensible reason to take care of our forests and trees.

From Update Forestry
Michigan State University

+What is the value of a tree?
  • It’s critical to keep planting trees, one reason; it adds value to your property.
  • It’s a good investment when planting $2000 dollars’ worth of money in trees that may become over a $10,000 dollar investment within 20 years, adding value to your property.
  • Curb appeal, and appearance.
  • Shade, during the warmer months adding shade to the southwest and southeast side of your property.
  • Trees bring nature back to your community, and to man-made environments.
+How much is my tree worth?
Most large trees in the right location could be worth up to $2-4,000 dollars per tree.
+How much could trees add value to my property?
  • Trees add 10%-20% to your home’s value. So if you have a $150,000 dollar home it could increase the value of $15,000 to $30,000 dollars’ in value to your home.
  • A $300,000 dollar home could increase $30,000 to $60,000 just by having the proper trees planted on your property, in the right location.
+Why choose Hendel’s Affordable Tree Care and Landscaping to plant your tree?
  • Because we know the proper placement and proper tree to plant on your property adding value.
  • We; being a tree company, with certified arborist being in business for 51 years take that experience and knowledge when helping to improve the overall placement and look of your property over a landscaper who chooses to typically buy low and sell high.
  • They sell short term trees that don’t add value. Short term; meaning they don’t die quickly, but long term don’t add real value to your property.
+What trees do you recommend planting?
  • We recommend you plant a tree that not only fits in your budget but, provides shade and appeal to your property. Here are just a few examples of what we recommend planting.
  • Oak trees are a heartier tree. A nice Oak Red (2” in Diameter 10’-16’ ft. tall)
  • Maples are a beautiful tree, but can be overdone. A Nice Maple Red Sunset (4” Diameter 22’-25’ft. tall)
  • Some other trees we recommend Oak Burr, Oak Swamp White, and Elm American Princeton.
+What is the most common size tree you recommend planting?
  • We recommend 2’ inch trees. They give you exactly what you need and there has been enough pruning allotting for less pruning in the future.
  • A 2” inch tree is approximately 10’-16’ ft. tall.
  • A 3” inch tree is approximately 16’-20’ ft. tall.
  • A 4” inch tree is 20’-25’ ft. tall.
+What size tree do you recommend planting?
We recommend planting a 2”inch tree, as studies have proven that a 2”inch tree can catch up to a 4”inch tree because they are easier to transplant and get everything going. 4”inch trees sometimes go through shock and if not watered enough, or it’s a finicky tree, some trees just do not transplant well.
+Are evergreens good for privacy?
We recommend that if you use Evergreens for privacy only when you are in full sun.
+When is the best time to plant a tree?
  • Fall
  • Spring may give you a better selection but we prefer to plant in late Fall so that the tree has all winter to adapt.
  • If you want a list of the trees that we plant click here http://www.hendeltree.com/services/tree_services/tree-finder.php
+What are common mistakes made when people plant trees?
  • Over-watering, or under-watering.
  • We recommend you water your tree at least once a week if not twice a week. Water on a Monday and Thursday, not Monday and Tuesday.

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Tree Care & Maintenance

+How often should someone inspect my trees?
We recommend a certified arborist inspect your trees annually. Especially when the leaves are out and see what is going on. Always look for lack of foliage in trees, look for mushrooms coming from the base, look for bugs going up and down. Look for structural integrity of the tree.
+What happens if I have a lot of bad trees in my yard?
We don’t recommend cutting down all of your bad trees, then you have no trees. What we like to do is what we call selective thinning. Maybe remove 2-3 trees a year and plant 2-3 more trees per year. We would recommend doing so over a time period where you have a master site plan and a good idea of the end result of what you want your property to look like. Be it that you want trees for shade or privacy? We can provide professional consulting on where to place your trees in the proper location.
+How often should I water my trees?
  • We recommend using a Tree Gator Bag
  • Or a large 20 gallon heavy duty garbage bag filled with water.
  • We recommend filling that up April through the middle of September.
  • Fill the bag at least once to twice a week as long as the weather is under 85 degrees.
+How can I water my trees if I don’t have a Gator Bag?
  • We recommend drip irrigation, we can install drip irrigation. Irrigation is a good way to make sure that you give a proper amount of water to your trees. One gallon of water can be dumped per hour per hour per hole. There are water measuring tools you can buy.
  • Use a soaker hose. You just place the soaker hose in your yard and water at night and turn off in the morning.
+What are Common mistakes in Maintenance of trees?
  • Over mulching, and mulch volcanoes
  • Mulch piled high up the trunk of the tree causes it to choke out the trunk allowing bugs to come in and over time the tree will start to decline.
  • One of the best things for maintenance of trees is to also aerate your yard during fall.
+Is feeding trees a joke?
  • Absolutely not! We commonly see trees in residential areas or in parks, therefore they are commonly taken care of by a lawn care service; hence its livelihood and appeal.
  • Mother Nature in the woods is a different eco system where feeding and soil is provided by Mother Nature itself. The grass and soil are totally different than those of urban trees. In the woods grass is scarcer and the soil is dark and rich.
  • Urban trees must be taken care of as such, feeding and spraying helps protect the trees as the environment is much different than that in a forest or woods. It’s up to us to feed, protect and provide for these trees much like we would in Mother Nature’s settings. Trees need our TLC and just as they do in a forest atmosphere.
+Honeysuckle: should I remove it? How difficult is it to remove?
Honeysuckle is an invasive plant that produces unhealthy berries for wildlife, and because it retains its leaves much longer than most plants it creates a canopy of shade on the forest floor which suffocates native wildflowers. Honeysuckle is the first shrub that you will see that greens up in the spring, and the last to drop its leaves in the fall. Honeysuckle takes over quickly and can grow to 20-feet tall. It is a threat to your landscape because it can rapidly invade and overtake an area forming a dense shrub layer that will crowd out all of your native plants.

It is extremely difficult to eliminate. When mowed, it will try to regenerate itself quickly. You can’t cut it or spray it once and expect the job to be done. If you can spray it, spray it. But, if it’s just too big to spray we recommend cutting it down, immediately use Round-Up Pro; read the label. Then after 30 days use the Round-Up Pro again. Before you remove the roots. This is much more efficient way to be sure that you’ve killed the honeysuckle. A lot of times there are better options to create privacy such as Evergreens.

+Should I leave Honeysuckle in my yard for privacy in a green space?
We don’t recommend leaving honeysuckle in your yard as a use for privacy. We would recommend using clump trees, or Alleghany viburnum’s which a beautiful hedge that holds its leaves until the middle of December.
+What are common mistakes with different species of trees?
  • Magnolia trees: Magnolia trees need dormant oil in the spring. Oils kill exposed insects and mites by either suffocating them (covering up breathing tubes) or by directly penetrating the outside cuticle and destroying internal cells.
  • Crabapple trees: Always need fungicide spray during spring, 3 sprays total. They also need fungicide injections to keep the apples looking nice and prevent apple scab.
  • Pin Oaks: Pin Oaks are common to have an iron deficiency which may become severe enough to cause defoliation and, ultimately, tree death. They need to be fed and TLC as well.
  • Spruce: Spruce trees tend to get spider mites. All Spruces need Spider/Miticide spray. Spruces are also water sensitive; they need lots of water. You could lose your spruces very easily.

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Insect Infestations

+Can you kill bugs in a tree?
  • Yes we can kill bugs in a tree. There are multiple ways to kill bugs.
  • We can spray the tree.
  • We can inject the tree to help kill the bugs, there are also different levels of injections that we can use to kill the bugs that are more powerful.
  • We also use soil drench putting chemicals around the tree to help kill the bugs.
+How do you kill bag worms?
  • We kill the bag worms with spray. Unfortunately people wait too late to call us and lose their trees. If you see worms call us immediately. Early spray better control.
  • When diagnosing a tree too many times people look at the top of the tree when you should be looking at the base of the tree and the ground looking for bugs, loose bark, cavities or decay.
  • We perform tree surgery and trace the outside of the cavity and spray with a more aggressive spray. The exoskeleton of ants and bores are hard thus harder to control.
  • Be aware of what’s going on in your yard. If you notice a tree starting to decline or lose foliage don’t wait. Call us so that we can help protect and save your tree rather than cut it down. Be proactive in your trees health and contact a certified arborist as soon as possible so we can assess the situation and save your tree.
  • As certified arborist with experience, knowledge, proper training, professionalism; we use a certified spray applicator and with the proper skills and equipment to save your trees at an affordable price.
+Is EAB (Emerald Ash Borer) treatable?
  • Yes, your ash trees are salvageable.
  • If you have 75% of foliage on your ash trees it is treatable and we will save it.
  • We generally treat in May, we find this is the best time to treat EAB. But, as long as the tree will draw up the chemical; any time of year is ok. It’s like your tree is at battle, would you prefer to treat the tree at the end of the battle or at the beginning? All Ash Trees will die if not treated. Bugs
  • Bugs are prone to go after older larger trees, because there is more room to get into those spaces. Younger trees are tighter and it’s harder for bugs to root into small spaces of the bark in those trees. Older trees are more susceptible due to this.
+Should I treat my Ash tree?
  • Yes we think you should treat your ash trees. If it’s in a nice location, and it’s a large, nice tree.
  • If you have a lot of bad Ash trees, it’s a waste of your money to try and treat them all, if it’s too late. We would rather treat half of your ash trees especially if your money is tight. We would assess the trees and try to save the majority of the healthier ash trees, possibly remove the worst of the trees and come up with a planting program.

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Tree Location

+Where is the best place to plant a tree for privacy and/or shade?
  • When entertaining or just relaxing on your deck, you want the privacy that a tree provides as well as the shade.
  • A common mistake made when planting trees is planting a tree in the wrong location.
  • The tree is planted too deep.
  • The tree is not watered enough.
  • When planting a tree you want to plant a tree on the edges of your yard it makes the yard look bigger.
  • We don’t recommend planting a tree over a neighbor’s pool that may cause trouble for you and your neighbor in the future.
  • Nurseries are in the business of generally selling plants. We are in the business of a more personalized service. Coming to your home, seeing what type of tree is best for your soil type, your soil conditions things of that nature. Make sure you get that professional advice.
+I have a large tree near my house. Should I remove it due to the roots damaging my home?
You don’t have to cut down your large trees near your home. It’s what we call Root Pruning we do this for a lot of large Commercial Businesses, Campuses etc., which have large trees near their buildings. Root pruning helps protect your foundation and does minimal damage to your trees. We also use root enhancement. We leave soil compaction to help those large trees.

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Storm Damage

+What if a tree is on my house?
  • First we recommend you contact your insurance agent.
  • More than likely they will then inform you to contact several tree companies.
  • You want to take many photos when a tree is on your house to turn in to the insurance company when processing a claim. However, we recommend that you don’t if it’s not a significant amount of money. At least $1000-$1500 dollars plus.
  • If it was just the cost of the tree, I would eat the cost of the tree if it has not caused a lot of damage to your home. For example if a tree in your yard falls and causes damage to your fence. The insurance company will typically say that the tree fall was due to your neglect. Thus you are hit with a claim and it’s more out of pocket expense for you.
  • This is a common mistake with homeowners because they think that just because the tree is dead and has no leaves that the tree can be left alone. The tree is now hazardous even for a tree climber or company due to the fact it could fall while we are trying to remove it.
  • So if you have a large tree and you’re concerned about the tree damaging your home, let us know ASAP. Some estimates are free but a level 1 tree risk assessment may cost money in the off chance that you get cited by a neighbor or the city that you live in.
+Am I allowed to cut my neighbor's tree?
According to the state of Ohio you own your air space, so you’re allowed to cut the neighbors tree if it is in your air space, as long as you do not kill the tree.
+Who Pays for Damages When Your Tree Falls on a Neighbor's Property?
Trees are a wonderful addition to your home's landscape, but they can also cause real problems if a heavy wind topples one, and it lands on your neighbor's property and damages their home. Who is legally responsible for paying to repair that damage? If you answered, "I am," you would be wrong. Your neighbor would have to submit a claim to their homeowner's policy insurer to pay for any necessary repairs. Wind and lightning are generally covered perils in a standard HO3 homeowner's policy, or they are included in a homeowner's all-risk policy. Since your carrier doesn't have to pay, your policy won't be impacted, which means your insurance premiums won't increase. However, you still may not be off the hook for liability, because your neighbor might decide to sue you to cover their deductible. The only instance in which you would be required to pay for the damage to your neighbor's property caused by your fallen tree is when the damage resulted from your negligence. You could be held liable if your tree was dying or already dead before it fell on your neighbor's property, and you did nothing to prevent property damage. In this case, your insurance carrier would have to cover the repairs. In addition, if your neighbor files a lawsuit against you alleging negligence, your insurer would be required to defend you and investigate the claim. If you are found to be legally responsible for the damage to your neighbor's house, your carrier will pay up to your policy limits. Your neighbor can also submit a liability claim against your homeowner's insurance policy. Of course, the best way to avoid a situation like this is to prevent it from happening. If you have a tree on your property that looks unhealthy, consider having it checked by an arborist and, if necessary, removed before it falls. It may seem like a large expense, but it may actually save you money in the long run by helping you avoid increased insurance premiums. Equally as important, removing the possible risk of damage will help you maintain a good relationship with your neighbor. And as any homeowner knows, that is worth its weight in gold, especially if you plan to stay in your home for a while.
+What should I do if my neighbor has a dead tree and I'm concerned?
  • Write a letter to your neighbor before his dead, diseased or listing tree falls through your roof or over your property line.
  • The letter should include: Description of the problem.
  • Photographs
  • Request for action
  • Attorney letterhead
  • If after you have tried to contact the neighbor and they have shown no interest in correcting the problem, contact your County Auditor for more information.
+Will the electric company cut down my tree for free?
  • The electric company is only responsible for getting electricity to your house, they generally do tree work from pole to pole, but, not tree work from pole to house. Even if it’s dead or hazardous.
  • We can always handle tree work that involves electricity. We can drop your wires if they electricity company requires it or we can work around the wires. Depending on the work that needs to be done.

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Deer Management

+How can I manage deer destroying my plantings?
  • Deer protection. Even in the most populated communities we see deer quickly damaging landscape that you’ve worked hard to maintain and establish.
  • One deer can eat over a ton of food each year.
  • People use black drainage tile on their trees for deer protection. This is sometimes left on the tree for 2-3 years, which is a cheap way to protect from deer however it’s a great place for bugs to root.
  • The black tile holds moisture and the black coloring attracts the sun which causes it to be warm from the sun and the bugs go there to get warm causing a bug haven.
  • Deer Management is a must

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+Should I use rubber mulch or natural mulch?
In our opinion natural mulch is much better, it naturally breaks down and adds organic value, it’s aesthetically pleasing, it can also help trees health and bring the tree back to life.
+Which is better: black or dyed mulch?
  • We think it’s a personal preference. If you’re on a playground we recommend brown, or natural mulch because the dyed mulch can stain children’s clothes.
  • Black mulch holds its color longer.
+What is a true yard of mulch?
A true yard of mulch cannot fit in a big bobcat bucket. It has to be a large oversized bucket. Most people sell by the bucket.
+Where should I stage mulch?
We recommend if you have a nice driveway to put the mulch on a large tarp, it’s much easier. We never recommend placing mulch in the grass it’s a nightmare to clean up and pick up.
+Can I get a discount if I buy mulch in bulk?
You can get a discount if you buy larger amounts of mulch, 15 yards or more.
+What are some common mistakes when purchasing bulk amounts of mulch?
We typically see people over paying for bags of mulch for fundraisers, if you do the math you’ll see that you are highly over paying for bulk mulch we can provide the right amount at the right price.
+What’s the difference between pure bark mulch and natural shredded mulch?
Pure Bark product some people like however it’s much more expensive, it’s also a much lighter product so when it rains it just floats away. They both look good but again, it’s a person preference.
+What are some common mistakes people do with mulch?
Most people obviously do their mulching in the spring but also times in late fall so that it looks nice all winter.
+When is the best time to mulch?
  • Fabric under mulch. We think that mulch fabric is a no, no. It doesn’t truly deter weeds. It’s a nightmare to keep track of.
  • Rubber borders, this is another thing we don’t recommend it just doesn’t look good, or hold up well.
  • Concrete around mulch beds, this can also be problematic later if you have to have that tree removed. In which case we would have to use a crane.

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+What is a cord of wood?
Most people do not know what a real cord is. A cord of wood measures four feet high by four feet wide by eight feet long (4 ft. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.) and has a volume of 128 cubic feet.
+How much is in a stack of wood?
We sell our wood based on stacks:
  • 1/2 Cord is 1 stack of wood (4 ft. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.)
  • 1 Cord is 2 stacks of wood (4 ft. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.)
  • 2 Cord is 4 stacks of wood (4 ft. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.)
  • 3 Cord is 6 stacks of wood (4 ft. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.)
  • In general a pickup truck can only hold 1/2 a cord of wood. A common mistake by people is, when they hear "Pickup Truck" it seems like a lot of wood when you may be getting less than 1/2 a cord of wood for the price of a cord.
+What are some firewood tips you might have?
We sell our wood based on stacks:
  • Buy your wood early. You know how much wood you typically burn per winter. We recommend buying your wood early.
  • As soon as you get your wood delivered; tarp up the wood. Keep it dry, the less moisture in the wood the better the wood burns. Moisture will cause the wood to smoke and not burn as well.
  • We like to use diesel fuel, newspaper and a little pieces of wood to get a fire going and then use the split wood.
+What is seasoned firewood?
We sell our wood based on stacks: Seasoned Firewood is anything that has been cut down for a year or more. Although this doesn’t mean that the wood has been split for a year.
+What is the best wood to burn?
Wood Description Burn Characteristics
Alder Produces poor heat output and it does not last well. Poor
Apple A very good wood that burns slow and steady when dry, it has small flame size, and does not produce sparking or spitting. Good
Ash Considered by many to be one of best woods for burning, it produces a steady flame and good heat output. It can be burnt when green but like all woods, it burns best when dry. Very good
Beech Burns very much like ash, but does not burn well when green. Very good
Birch Produces good heat output but it does burn quickly. It can be burnt unseasoned, however the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Good
Cedar Is a good burning wood that produces a consistent and long heat output? It burns with a small flame, but does tend to crackle and spit and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Good
Cherry Is a slow to burn wood that produces a good heat output? Cherry needs to be seasoned well. Good
Chestnut A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output. Poor
Firs (Douglas etc.) A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Poor
Elm Is a wood that can follow several burn patterns because of high moisture content, it should be dried for two years for best results? Elm is slow to get going and it may be necessary to use a better burning wood to start it off. Splitting of logs should be done early. Medium
Eucalyptus Is a fast burning wood. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire if burned unseasoned. Poor
Hawthorn Is a good traditional firewood that has a slow burn with good heat output? Very good
Hazel Is a good but fast burning wood and produces best results when allowed to season. Good
Holly Is a fast burning wood that produces good flame but poor heat output? Holly will burn green, but best dried for a minimum of a year. Poor
Hornbeam A good burning wood that burns similar to beech, slow burn with a good heat output. Good
Horse Chestnut A good wood for burning in wood stoves but not for open fires as it does tend to spit a lot. It does however produce a good flame and heat output. Good (For stoves only)
Laburnum A very smoky wood with a poor burn. Poor, do not use
Larch Produces a reasonable heat output, but it needs to be well seasoned. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Medium
Laurel Burns with a good flame but only reasonable heat output. It needs to be well seasoned. Medium
Lilac Its smaller branches are good to use as kindling, the wood itself burns well with a good flame. Good
Maple Is a good burning wood that produces good flame and heat output? Good
Oak Because of its density, oak produces a small flame and very slow burn, it is best when seasoned for a minimum of two years as it is a wood that requires time to season well. Good
Pear Burns well with good heat output, however it does need to be seasoned well. Good
Pine (Including Leilani) Burns with a good flame, but the resin sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire must be well seasoned. Good (with caution)
Plum A good burning wood that produces good heat output. Good
Poplar A very smoky wood with a poor burn. Very poor
Rowan Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output? Very good
Robinia (Acacia) Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output? It does produce an acrid and dense smoke but this is of course not a problem in a stove. Good (For Stoves only)
Spruce Produces a poor heat output and it does not last well. Poor
Sycamore Produces a good flame, but with only moderate heat output. Should only be used well-seasoned. Medium
Sweet Chestnut The wood burns ok when well-seasoned but it does tend to spit a lot. This is of course not a problem in a stove. Medium (For Stoves only)
Thorn Is one of the best woods for burning? It produces a steady flame and very good heat output, and produces very little smoke. Very good
Willow A poor fire wood that does not burn well even when seasoned. Poor
Yew A good burning wood as it has a slow burn, and produces a very good heat output. Very good
+What’s the best way to store wood if I don’t own a firewood haven or a firewood rack?
We recommend stacking the wood on 2x4’s to keep it off the ground and away from the bugs, then tarping the wood up to keep rain and moisture away from the wood.
+What are the benefits of having hand split wood and hand loaded wood?
  • Wheel loaders, and machine processors have a lot of junk that may end up in the wood and leave more that you bargained for in your wood.
  • Always be careful when burning wood in your stove and maintenance of your chimney and stove is a must.
  • As in the list above Pine can burn, but the resin sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire.
  • Walnut can be toxic just as burning treated deck lumber, you are not supposed to burn this type of wood in a stove that is located in the home.
+How often should I maintenance my stove?
  • You should get your stove or fireplace inspected annually. You should also do a chimney sweep before the season starts. Chimney fires are very serious.
  • Check all batteries in your home, fire extinguishers etc.
  • If you heat your home with a stove or fireplace, keeping the warmth of a fire throughout your home requires air movement. Put lots of wood on your fire and turn a fan on to let it distribute air throughout the home. We recommend adding wood at night and in the morning turning on the fans to create airflow.

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